In the Mischabels massif, a king without a crown dazzles the Valais. The Täschhorn rises above the village of Täsch, yet remains in the shadow of its neighbor the Dom. An elusive colossus of rugged beauty, an inaccessible jewel in the Alpine sky. Today, I present you with a portrait of the Täschhorn, like an ode to the high mountains.
Portrait of the Täschhorn: Birth of a king in the Mischabels massif
From Saas-Fee, the mountain is a discreet, faithful companion to the Dom des Mischabel. But from Zermatt, the Täschhorn tells a very different story. The story of a king without crown or finery, but who reigns over the Alps and the Mischabels. The story of a pyramid of gneiss and schist that stands alone against the elements at 4491 m altitude. Three vertiginous faces and ridges that only the bravest of men will ever be able to climb.
The east face of the Täschhorn dominates Saas-Fee and the Feegletscher. Above Täsch and Randa, its west face has its roots in the Kingletscher. And its south face watches over Täschalp and the Weingartengletscher. Of course, the mountain doesn't rise as high as the Dom. In the eyes of geographers, it remains the eternal runner-up. But it still manages to be the king of the Swiss Alps. For its ridges are immense and its paths infinite. Its silhouette is impressive and its walls majestic. Isolated from the world, the summit exposes its steep ridges and deep cracks to the winds. The Täschhorn rises like an ivory tower at the southern end of the Mischabels.
Climbing the Täschhorn: First summit the Mischabels massif
The summit the Täschhorn remained unexplored until July 30, 1862. On that day, Stefan and Johann Zumstaugwald, John Llewelyn Davies, J.W. Hayward and Peter-Josef Summermatter climbed the northwest face of the mountain. Four years after conquering the Dom des Mischabel, the climbers crossed the ice wall to reach the summit of the gneiss titan.
On August 7, 1876, the east face of the Täschhorn was conquered. Alexander Burgener, Laurent Proment, Benedict Venetz, P. Watson and Florence Thomas Wethered paved the way for future rope parties. A few days later, on August 15, 1876, James Jackson, accompanied by Christian and Ulrich Almer, reached the summit the Täschhorn for the first time via its southeast ridge. The development of the Täschalp alpine pastures and the construction of the Mischabeljoch bivouac in 1966 certainly contributed to the climbers' success. This once remote route had finally become accessible.
On July 16, 1887, Alexander Burgener, Albert-Frederick Mummery, Mary Petherick Mummery and J. Andenmatten made the first ascent of the Teufelsgrat or Devil's Ridge. This royal road to the Mischabels provides access to the summit the Täschhorn from the southwest.
Portrait of the Täschhorn: First ascent of the southwest face
To the south-west, the Täschhorn is protected from the world by an impregnable wall. Anyone attempting to cross it one day risks perishing. A shadow hangs over the mountain that only a hero could dispel. Yet one man dares to confront it. In the face of this icy vertical wall, he does not waver. At the age of 19, Franz Lochmatter excelled in the art of climbing. On August 11, 1906, he embarked on an expedition that would go down in history. The feat of a lifetime.
Franz Lochmatter leaves the valley with his brother Josef Lochmatter and their client V.J.E. Ryan. They are joined by G.W. Young and Josef Knubel. At the foot of the south-west face of the Täschhorn, the climbers agreed on their route. Then they set off for the wall. Halfway up, the roped parties gather to face the difficulties together. Snow- and ice-covered switchbacks, buttresses and overhangs: danger is everywhere. Fatigue threatens when the snow suddenly begins to fall. Above them, the wall seems invincible. His companions hesitate, looking for a way out, but Franz Lochmatter does not compromise. " It's got to go! They have no choice. He leads the way, following his instincts and overcoming the obstacles nature throws in his way. The men are exhausted, but they regain hope. They make their way along the rock face.
Suddenly, they're trapped again. An inextricable trap. Overhung on all sides, they can't get out. This impasse could well prove fatal. To top it all off, the winds are picking up at altitude. When Franz Lochmatter decides to go all out, it looks as if the snow flurries are going to engulf them. Facing ice and snow, he forces his way to the top of the Täschhorn with the skill of the greatest mountaineers. G.W. Young watches in amazement. A privileged witness to this tour de force, he is the only one to see Franz Lochmatter slip before clinging to the rock with his bare hands, his legs in the air. This time, it was a close call! The man catches his breath and takes stock. He sees no way out. It's impossible for the team to get back down. The storm was threatening to sweep them away, and they were exhausted. Their only way out is up: they must continue their ascent if they are to get out of this expedition alive.
Josef manages to join his brother. V.J.E. Ryan tries to climb, but suffocates under the pressure of the rope. Suddenly, the mountain is silent: Ryan has just lost consciousness. The Lochmatter brothers gather their last strength. There's not a minute to lose. Together, they pull up the inert body of their companion, which is spinning in the air like a bird of ill omen. With one hand, they cling to the rock face and, with the other, they pull him along. Whether it's their sheer will to win or their sheer determination, their efforts pay off. Ryan comes to his senses and takes the next step.
Now it was up to G.W. Young to climb the wall. But this time, the Lochmatter brothers can do nothing for him. He's heavier than his predecessor. Suspended in the void, Young generates a pendulum movement that gives the Lochmatter brothers the opportunity to hoist his rope. To rest his bruised arms, Young sometimes uses his teeth and, braving the impossible, crawls to join his companions. Josef Knubel finally overcomes this ordeal while carrying all the equipment.
The climbers have one last stage left. Above them, the summit the Täschhorn keeps a watchful eye on their astonishing progress. At around 4 p.m., Franz Lochmatter takes over as rope leader. Through winding rocks and giant slabs, he reaches the Mischabelgrat ridge. A few more meters of tenacity and the group reaches the coveted summit . At 6 p.m., the men can finally shout their great joy into the Alpine sky. They have just completed the first ascent of the south-west face of the Täschhorn. A feat worthy of the wildest odysseys. Franz Lochmatter is definitely not a man like the others. G.W. Young tells him: " My dear Franz, you'll never do anything harder. To which Franz replies: " Of course, we could hardly do better. The words were clear and the victory unassailable.
Under the admiring gaze of the Valais peaks, the exhausted men catch their breath. They contemplate one last time the grandiose horizon of mist and ice that satisfies their dream. Then, with a final burst of energy, they descend the Täschhorn by its normal route. After crossing the Kingletscher, they reach Randa at around 11 pm. In the evening light, they share a dinner whose authentic flavors are equal to their epic. And their happiness resounds, on this summer night, from the valley floor to the highest summits. They will never forget this unique day.
The ascent of the south-west face of the Täschhorn has since been considered one of the most daring climbs ever made at the summit the Alps. Speaking of this expedition, G.W. Young said: "Franz Lochmatter's feat was the greatest I have ever witnessed in the mountains". Repeats were few and far between, leaving this formidable south-facing slope abandoned.
Little by little, time erases setbacks and glory. Does an indomitable peak really have a place in the hearts of men? Today, the King of the Mischabels is bearing the full brunt of climate change. Its walls are breaking and collapsing more and more each year. Its ice is evaporating like the memory of its epic beginnings. Venturing to the summit the Täschhorn is a task for the most experienced mountaineers. In 2023, I was lucky enough to traverse the Täschhorn on the Dom des Mischabels alongside my guide, Nicolas Vuadens, and this incredible journey will remain engraved in my memory forever.
