Les Aiguilles du Diable. A harrow of invulnerable rock rising above Mont Blanc. The Corne du Diable, the Chaubert, the Médiane, the Carmen and the Isolée, five peaks that carve out the ChamonixMont Blanc skyline at over 4,000 m altitude. Like a call to come and outwit their traps, to measure themselves against the highest mountains, to become one with the Alps. The day has come to make their ascent a reality. From the Aiguilles du Diable to the summit Mont Blanc du Tacul. Like a waking dream at the gates of heaven.
Traversée des Aiguilles du Diable: Unexpected journey to the summit the Alps
June 2025. Just a few days ago, I completed the royal traverse of the Mont Blanc massif alongside my guide and friend, Johann Filliez. A few days on, and already my mind is elsewhere. Towards new Alpine 4000s to climb. But which one to choose? These first days of summer are already scorching hot and the summits are streaming. The snow is melting and, without refreezing at altitude, we're in danger of sinking to our waists. I'm deep in thought when I get a call from Vivian Bruchez. I tell him of my fears, which he immediately dispels. Access conditions to the Aiguilles du Diable are optimal, so it's the perfect time to get there.
Les Aiguilles du Diable! The five most demanding summits in the Alps! A complex traverse reserved for the most experienced climbers... But climbing has never been my forte. I'm a mountaineer, a photographer and a lover of heights, but I'm not a born climber. I knew this moment would come one day, but am I really ready to conquer my demons and overcome the ordeal? All winter long, I've been preparing myself. Because this year, I've decided to complete my tour of the 4000m peaks of the Alps. So I trained to climb. Indoors, on resin holds and with climbing shoes. Today, the situation is very different. If I embark on this adventure, I'll have to face the granite, the weight on my shoulders and the uncertainty.
I hesitate, but Vivian persists. He assures me that I'm capable of successfully crossing the Aiguilles du Diable. That I'm ready and that everything will be all right. He encourages me and urges me to go. To trust myself and follow my path. My place is up there and I mustn't give in to fears or doubts. Although this climb was intended to be the final stage of my tour of the Alpine 4000s, nature decided otherwise.
Won over by the fervor, I call Johann to tell him where we're going. He asks a few questions, checks the weather forecast, then is persuaded. We'll be climbing together to the summit the terrible Aiguilles du Diable! But we need to reserve a place in a hut. We contact the Torino and Cosmiques refuges, who tell us straight away that they're already full. We're not quite as enthusiastic as we'd like to be, but an idea crosses our minds: since we'll be bivouacking on our next trips, why not test our equipment now! This crossing will give us the opportunity to spend the night under the stars.
We set off for Entrèves, in the Italian Alps, to reach Pointe Helbronner by ski lift. We set up our bivouac at an altitude of over 3000 m, facing the fabulous Peuterey ridge. What a joy to be alone in the high mountains, at one with the elements! Before going to bed, we dine on a freeze-dried meal. And I realize that one portion is not enough to satisfy my hunger. On the next trip, I'll think about bringing more food. That's the point of testing our equipment before embarking on longer runs. At 7pm, we each take refuge in our tents as the sun sets over the horizon. A few hours' rest before the start of our expedition.
Traversée des Aiguilles du Diable: From Pointe Helbronner to Corne du Diable
We'd set the alarm for 0:50, but I open my eye before it goes off. I hear Johann stirring beside me; he too has already woken from sleep. We exchange a few words, then get up to pack. It's 1:40 a.m. when we leave our camp to cross the glacier du Géant. This glacial cirque at the foot of Mont Maudit will guide us to the Col du Diable. So many names that feed the imagination and forge the legend of the thousand-year-old Alps. On the slopes of the surrounding summits , lights twinkle. Human fireflies attracted by the radiance of the Mont Blanc massif. We're not the only ones to defy the night, and we hope there aren't too many climbers coveting the five Aiguilles du Diable. Fortunately, some of them soon head for Mont Maudit via the Kuffner ridge.
The couloir is free and we make our way towards the Col du Diable. The frost is superb and the firm snow supports our steps under a dark sky. But this route is vertical, as are many of the couloirs in the Chamonix mountains. It's a tough climb, and I'm grateful to Johann for advising me to take two ice axes to pull myself up through the snow and rock.
From the Col du Diable, we reach the Brèche Chaubert, which separates the first two needles, before climbing the Corne du Diable. A 22-metre climb along a sharp point, which I manage without too much difficulty. Having reached the summit, I'm pleased to see that my training has paid off, and I'm confident that I'll be able to complete the traverse.
Aiguilles du Diable traverse: ascent of Pointe Chaubert
It's still dark when we make our way back down to the Brèche Chaubert and then to the summit Pointe Chaubert. I'd heard that many climbers prefer to avoid the Corne du Diable. And this is indeed the choice made by the party now ahead of us on the Chaubert route. But they have a head start and don't hinder our progress.
Johann tells me that this point is the trickiest to climb. I'm about to experience an intense battle with both the mountain and myself. Johann is ahead of me and I must join him. I breathe and go for it. The crack resists, holds are rare. I try to become one with the mountain, to penetrate its mystery, to identify its faults. But a step blocks me and, for ten minutes, my feet scrape against the rock without finding a way to hold on. The balance of forces, the point of entry, the crack through which to split the armor. The Alps put me to the test, and the pressure mounts as other roped parties await their turn below.
I don't know what to do to get over this hurdle when, suddenly, I manage it, without really knowing how. I take this step and am relieved to be able to join Johann at last. He smiles at me, but the look on his face says a lot about my ability to complete this crossing of the Aiguilles du Diable. No doubt he thinks I'm not ready for this adventure. Perhaps he even regrets having believed in me. I don't want to disappoint him. In the high mountains, we have no choice but to succeed or ask the rescuers for help. There's no turning back up there. And I can't help wondering as we continue our ascent to the summit Pointe Chaubert.
Aiguilles du Diable traverse: ascent of Pointe Médiane
We then descend the Pointe Chaubert abseils to head for Pointe Médiane. I thought the abseils of the Dent du Géant were the most formidable in the Mont Blanc massif, I think these are even more so. All around us, everything is vertical, rigorous and pure. The quintessence of the mountain, where the absolute blends with the splendor of the world.
As the mountain gradually warms up under the rays of the rising sun, we suddenly come face to face with a fascinating dihedral. An open book on Mont Blanc and its granite massif. Two pieces of rock that unite and never part. A masterpiece of which nature still holds the secret. At their junction, a fissure allows men to make their way to the summit the Médiane. I take pleasure in rising, in becoming one with the rock. On the steep wall, my fingers catch and hurt themselves, so inflexible is it. But I savor my good fortune to be here, where wild beauty reaches its peak. This dihedral is undoubtedly the most grandiose spot on this traverse of the Aiguilles du Diable. And I honor it by drawing the strength to climb it from deep within me. One last step blocks my ascent and I hear myself scream. An almost primitive howl of rage to incite my body to surpass itself. I push on my legs, grab hold of the rock, pull myself up inch by inch. Until, by dint of contortions, I manage to topple over onto the Next boulder. Fabulous dance of a mountaineer and a dihedral at the summit the Alps. I'll never forget this incredible passage.
We then slip into a cavity that leads us straight to the summit the aiguille. Alone perched on the crests of Pointe Médiane, we are deliriously happy. The granite slabs interlock to embrace the sky. And I feel happy. All around us, the mountain seems to lay itself bare. Far from the immovable devil I was afraid to face, it's a blazing angel that overwhelms and encourages me. The work of an artist, Mother Nature. On this uncompromising summit, I feel capable of completing this crossing of the Aiguilles du Diable.
Aiguilles du Diable traverse: From Pointe Carmen to Mont Blanc du Tacul
With our hearts full of gratitude, we make our way back down to the summit Pointe Carmen. From here, we take the route to the Brèche du Diable. Many roped parties complete their traverse here. But we want to climb all five needles. After traversing the impressive abseils of Pointe Carmen, we decide to follow the Contamine 4C route to reach the summit of Isolée, or Pointe Blanchet. Using our last bit of strength, we climbed our5th aiguille of over 4000 m. We've done it! I can't find the words to express the emotion that overwhelms me! We've surpassed ourselves, we've given it our all, and the Alps have opened the gates to their most beautiful kingdom.
The time has come to continue our journey towards Mont Blanc du Tacul. We climbed it the previous week and are already struggling to recognize it because the snow has melted so much. From Mont Blanc du Tacul, we head for the Aiguille du Midi, the final stage of our race. I feel myself weakening on the way up. My head is pounding with a migraine, and I can feel the sun burning my face. I'm exhausted by our adventure. Exhausted by this 12-hour crossing, but relieved and proud to have finally overcome this ordeal. From the Aiguille du Midi, we return to the valley. And I take with me the unique memory of crossing the Aiguilles du Diable in the heart of Mont Blanc.
We triumphed on this crossing of the Aiguilles du Diable, and I can't wait to tell my partner and daughter about our expedition. This summer, I'm sure, I'll have completed the ascent of 82 Alpine summits over 4000 m high.
