The royal crossing of Mont Blanc via Bionnassay. A celestial ascent that sounds like a dream. Climb the Dômes de Miage, the Aiguille de Bionnassay, the Dôme du Goûter and finally the Roof of Europe. At the summit Mont Blanc, contemplate the Alps. Then on to Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc du Tacul and finally the Aiguille du Midi. I've been thinking about this high-mountain journey for over ten years. Now it's time to make it a reality.
Traversée royale du Mont Blanc : From Contamines-Montjoie to the Conscrits refuge
June 2025. I meet up with my guide, Johann Filliez, in ChamonixMont Blanc. Together, we drive to Saint-Gervais-les-Bains to reach Les Contamines-Montjoie. This is where our adventure begins. At the bottom of the Val Montjoie, under the gaze of the immense Aiguille de Bionnassay. In front of us, the Mont Blanc massif stretches to infinity.
From Contamines-Montjoie, we climb towards the Conscrits refuge. All around us, the forest stretches out under a radiant sky. The rhythm of our footsteps on the rocky path, the rustle of the trees in the light wind. The birdsong that suddenly ceases as we pass, as if to warn Mont Blanc of our arrival. How beautiful the mountains are when spring returns!
We're in the midst of a charming hike when, suddenly, the Alps confront us with a different reality. Behind the Tré-la-Tête refuge, the ice is a shadow of its former self. Almost nothing remains of the Tré-la-Tête glacier. Just a bit of grey ice, a far cry from the brilliance of eternal snow. The further you go towards the Conscrits refuge, the more abundant the ice becomes. But for how long?
After a 5-hour walk, we arrive at the hut in the afternoon. I stretch and hydrate to be in shape for the next day. This year, I'm acclimatizing to the mountains in a different way. Over the winter, I've been training hard to climb in the Alps, with a backpack weighing over 10 kg. Because this summer I'm planning to do some long runs that will require me to bivouac at altitude. So I'm all set to complete this royal traverse of the Mont Blanc massif via the Aiguille de Bionnassay. At dinnertime, we gaze at the surrounding summits whitened by the freshly fallen snow. But Johann assures me that the weather the following day will be just right for our expedition.
Traversée royale du Mont Blanc : From the Aiguille de la Bérangère to the Dômes de Miage
After a few hours' sleep, we wake up at 2:30 am and leave the Conscrits hut at 3:30 am. We set off at night towards the Aiguille de la Bérangère. The snow is firm beneath our feet, and conditions are exceptional. We made rapid progress and, shortly before dawn, reached the summit the Aiguille, at 3425 m altitude. By daybreak, the sun is scorching and I'm swimming. But no matter, I'm happy as long as I'm up there. The landscape around us is marvellous. I photograph the Alps bathed in soft, fairy-tale light. So much beauty in just one breath. I can see Mont Blanc rising on the horizon. It's so far away from us that Johann and I can't make out the many climbers who traverse its crests. It's a strange feeling to think that, the next day, we too will have reached it.
After this short break at the summit the Aiguille de la Bérangère, the ridge leads us towards the Dômes de Miage. Little by little, Mont Blanc becomes more imposing. From one Dôme to the next, we advance between earth and sky on a magnificent ridge. As we reach the last Dôme de Miage, I turn around to photograph the roped parties following us. Frail silhouettes balanced on the backs of the Alps. The Aiguille de Bionnassay looms up in front of us. It's so gigantic that it seems impregnable. I can't wait to conquer it. I've been dreaming of this day for so many years. But we've already got to reach the Durier refuge below.
Traversée royale du Mont Blanc via Bionnassay: Le refuge Durier, at the summit the Alps
On the ridge leading to the Col de Miage and the hut, the cornices threaten, but the view is magical. The mountain sparkles, and the snow on the high slopes almost makes you think you're in the Himalayas. We finish the run by abseiling and arrive at the doors of the Durier hut at 10am. We were warmly welcomed by Manon, the hut's janitor. The shelter, still covered in snow, can only accommodate around twenty climbers. Inside, the beds are nested one on top of the other and, to avoid the harmful effects of overcrowding, a plank separates each berth. Comfort is minimal, but we can sleep and eat. That's the main thing.
On the other hand, if you're doing the royal Mont Blanc traverse via the Aiguille de Bionnassay, you should know that the most perilous passage of the entire race is here, at the Col de Miage. It's not the mountain that's setting a trap for you, but the refuge. I'm joking, of course, but if you dare venture into the toilets, be on your guard. At the bottom of a few steps, there's a landing on the edge of the precipice. Imagine the scene: your foot slipping on the icy surface is all it takes for your expedition to turn into a tragedy. You'll be thrown against a barrier, and if the planks give way, you'll have to take the plunge! As for the toilet itself, let's hope it's firmly anchored to the rock. As you may have guessed, I only spent a short time there, and didn't venture out at night!
But now back to our crossing. We rest all day. Waiting quietly for the hours to pass and regaining our strength. Under a hazy sky, gorged with the ashes of the fires that were then striking Canada, we were already thinking about tomorrow. In the evening, the wind starts to blow, clouds take over the high summits. And we wonder what the weather has in store for the rest of our journey.
After dinner, we catch sight of a group of English mountaineers who set off shortly after us from the Conscrits hut. The high mountains are unpredictable, and conditions change dramatically from one hour to the next. Firm snow becomes soft, and we sink into it up to our thighs. Each stride becomes an ordeal, and the more exhausted you get, the less progress you make. Seeing these men in the distance, I take a picture of them. Then I go to bed, like my comrades. We fall asleep so quickly that none of us hears the English coming through the door.
That night, I was serene. Ready to make my dream come true. I've been contemplating the Aiguille de Bionnassay for so many years. I've admired it and photographed it. It's so close and I feel so good. Our ascent was gradual, I'd prepared well for it and I don't feel any altitude sickness. It's almost too easy, everything's going a little too well. That's where the problem lies. Because I love mountains that make me face my limits. The relentless, inaccessible mountain. The mountain that requires man to surpass himself. I love confronting excess, braving the forces of nature. And to draw from the depths of my being whatever energy I have left to overcome obstacles and reach for the sky. The Alps inspire me when they're invincible. But here I feel neither doubt nor fear, only enthusiasm. This strange feeling lulls me to sleep until dawn.
The alarm goes off at 1:30. I have a headache and a stiff neck. This is not the time. It's going to be a long day and I need to be in shape. Without question, I swallow an aspirin tablet and cross my fingers that the pain will pass. We're two roped parties leaving so early. The other climbers are fast asleep. So the four of us have breakfast in silence under the red glow of our headlamps.
Traversée royale du Mont Blanc : ascent of the Aiguille de Bionnassay
Johann and I leave the Durier hut at 2:45 am. It's still pitch dark and the slope is steep. I can feel my pulse racing within the first few meters. Rock follows snow and we stop to give Johann time to adjust our ropes. From here, we have to climb the rock face. Under the bluish glow of the full moon, we set off for the summit the Aiguille de Bionnassay.
We make rapid progress along the ridge. Even though the tricky sections are few and far between, I'm happy to have Johann by my side. I have total confidence in him. He's incredibly bold, cool and discerning. He accompanies me, assures me, holds me back, and I know that with him, everything will go smoothly. After crossing this rocky section, we finally reach the snow ridge opening the way to the summit. And when we finally reach the summit of the Aiguille de Bionnassay, I have tears in my eyes. It's 5 o'clock in the morning. At first light, the sky is ablaze as my heart awakens to the splendor of the Alps. I've just climbed my 63rd summit over 4000 m.
We have succeeded. And yet, I know, this is only the beginning. This is where it all begins. The ascent of Mont Blanc, the apotheosis of this royal traverse via Bionnassay. Ahead of us, the ridge linking the Aiguille de Bionnassay to the Dôme du Goûter leads to the Toit de l'Europe. I'll tell you more about this expedition in a second story.
