On the border between Valais and the BerneseOberland , I reach for the sky. The Jungfrau beckons. The emblematic mountain of the Grindelwald region, it watches over the Alps alongside the Mönch and the Eiger. It's mid-October and still summer. The fine weather doesn't seem to be giving way to snow this year. Carried along by the Soft winds of autumn, my fervor remains intact. Climbing new summits, surveying new ridges and becoming one with the peaks - that's what drives me and makes me happy.
So I met up again with Johann Filliez, a mountain guide with whom I'd already shared so many adventures. Together, we decided to climb the Jungfrau via the Innera Rottalgrat. Away from the Jungfraujoch and its busy railway station, this is a wild and little-traveled route. A sublime flight to one of the most beautiful 4000-meter summits in the Swiss Alps.
Ascent of the Jungfrau | From the Lauterbrunnen valley to the Rottalhütte
October 13, 2023. Johann and I leave the village of Rütti, nestled in the Lauterbrunnen valley. An ascent of 1850 meters awaits us to reach the Rottalhütte. Beyond the sporting challenge, the climb to the refuge is a journey in itself. From a forest path, we reach the mountain pastures. Through the tall grass of the pastures and under a radiant sky, nature shines. As we walk, the curtain opens on the Breithorn, Tschingelhoren and Mutthorn, which dominate the floor of the Lauterbrunnental. We also catch a glimpse of the fabulous slopes of Äbni Flue, which we both skied down last spring. Its north face looms over us here, a precipice lined with impressive hanging glaciers.
The valley is wild in early autumn. The browned grass displays its last glimmers before the snow covers it for several months. The ultimate flamboyance of nature, ready to slumber, waiting only for the brilliance of spring to bring it back to life. Such fiery beauty, yet so fleeting! I soak up its opulence, discovering new perspectives and new paths with every glance. The high mountains never cease to amaze me.
Then the landscape changes. Alpine pastures give way to rocky outcrops, and we move from the world of plants to that of minerals. The autumn sky fills the heights, and we're plunged into a masterly atmosphere. We are now in the heart of a gloomy, grandiose world dominated by gigantic glaciers.
Rottalhütte | At the foot of the Innera Rottalgrat
Our footsteps lead us through the crumbling rock to the Rottalhütte, perched at the foot of the Rottalgletscher. This is the climax of a 4-hour hike along the slopes of the Bernese mountains. The glacier reveals its magnificent crevasses, inspiring lines and muted colors. A cameo of grey at the summit of the Alps, like a vibrant masterpiece of soul-splitting nature. Embedded in the rocks, the glacier seems to roar. Exposing its cracks like the scars of a suffering colossus. Its curves loosen like the life that flows within it, indomitable and millennia old. I drown in its entrails, bearers of so many truths. Offering a breath of eternity to its flickering snows, I photograph it. Again and again, from every angle. Because the heritage of the Alps is so precious to me, and because their beauty is infinite.
The Rottalhütte is an unguarded bivouac. So we bring all our gear, and I like feeling stripped of everything. Getting back to basics to better understand the mountain. Once we've pushed open the refuge door, we turn the pages of its visitors' book. We are amazed to discover that only a handful of mountaineers stop off at this hut to climb the Jungfrau via the Innera Rottalgrat. This superb traverse is certainly the most beautiful way to access the mountain. With a vertical drop of 3,248 metres from the valley to the summit the Jungfrau, it's comparable in scope to climbing Mont Blanc without the aid of lifts. An ascent worthy of the greatest!
We realize how lucky we are to be up there. Under the setting sun, we can make out the route of the ridge we'll be climbing the next day. Then we contemplate the glowing landscape. This twilight in-between where the elements come together, where the beauty of the heights sings its truth. For a moment, the pure colors of the sky redraw the immensity of the mountain. And we are present at the heart of this magical, sublime world.
It's getting late and our stomachs are starting to get hungry. So, swapping our hiking clothes for a chef's hat, we prepare dinner. We light a fire and boil some ice. We fill our gourds with this miraculous water, which is also essential for cooking our meal. And tonight, we treat ourselves to a feast! On the menu, my favorite dish: pesto pasta sprinkled with parmesan. A real delight! I've been enjoying it for years now in the high mountains, when I'm bivouacking in a tent or in a refuge. As well as being delicious, this dish requires few ingredients, is easy to cook and requires little water. When rivers no longer flow, glaciers are far away and snow is scarce, water becomes so precious that we save it.
Ascent of the Jungfrau via the Innera Rottalgrat
October 14, 2023. The short autumn days allow us to get up later. At 4:30 a.m., we devour a hearty slice of walnut pie. A Grisons speciality, this concentrated energy boost gets us in shape for what lies ahead. We leave the Rottal hut at 5 a.m. and reach the foot of the Innera Rottalgrat in just 10 minutes. 1400 meters of ascent await us. On this western ridge of the Jungfrau, sheltered from the sun, I thought I'd be very cold. But it's nothing of the sort. Unfortunately, such mild temperatures at such a high altitude don't bode well for the future. The further I go, the more clothes I take off, so hot is the effort.
After climbing a few rocks, we reach an altitude of 2928 metres. This point, visible from the Rottalhütte, marks the real start of our race. Just as I was sure we'd have to climb some difficult passages, we come across a long trail. We walk along it at a leisurely pace before reaching the more vigorous rocks. Johann is ahead of me on a path of steep ledges, opting for the safer passages. I follow him and feel at ease in this ragged world. I'm used to working on crumbly terrain when I take photographs. So we make rapid progress until we reach a curious flat spot at 3281 meters altitude. The Jungfrau is definitely full of surprises!
Dawn breaks and the dazzling silhouettes of the highest mountains appear on the horizon. Mont Blanc, the Grand Combin and the Dents du Midi are reborn in the first light of day. It's a magical sight. Emotion overwhelms me, and my heart wavers between the supreme joy of being here and the fear of the difficulties the climb will bring.
Facing us, in fact, is a wall of rock. It seems insurmountable, but beyond my doubts, I trust Johann to guide me. At around 3700 metres altitude, the mountain suddenly takes on a different look. Limestone gives way to a mixture of gneiss, and from a beige rock we move on to a dark gray stone. The change is sudden and accompanied by more serious obstacles. Fortunately, we can rely on the fixed ropes installed along the way.
Then, the clear dawn gives way to a generous sun that illuminates the panorama. Words fail me in the face of such splendor. Everything here is harmony and grandeur, and fierce beauty unites with the essential. I can't believe my eyes, it's such a breathtaking scene! But the mountain never gives us a break, and I have to concentrate on my movements at all times.
At an altitude of 3789 metres, we hit the snow for the first time. Sparkling and pure, it clung to the ice to my great relief. I was dreading the fact that this section of the ridge, steep and demanding, would be made of sharp ice. On the snow-covered ridges of the Innera Rottalgrat, we walk with ease. After a short rocky section, we tackle another steep slope in the snow that leads us below the summit. The last technical step before our arrival is to cross a rimaye, an open crevasse in the Hochfirn glacier. It's a tough ordeal, and I don't know how I'd have got through it without the invaluable help of Johann, who cuts a few steps in the ice in front of me. I thank him a thousand times over!
At the summit the Jungfrau | Queen mountain of the bernese alps
Everything then accelerates, and a few minutes later we finally reach the summit the Jungfrau, at 4158 metres above sea level. Without a trace of snow or ice, the mountain is capped with pebbles. Times are changing at breakneck speed. Then, I look up and stand in awe. Am I still on Earth, or is all this just a dream? The entire Alps come into view in a deep, authentic light. The Bernese mountains, Piz Bernina, the giants of the Valais and the Mont Blanc massif. The Aletschgletscher, Europe's longest glacier, flows before us.
Our gaze takes in almost all the Alpine summits over 4,000 metres above sea level. Under a deep blue sky and shining sun, rock and ice unite to form a marvellous wave. The ridges and peaks tell the story of an unshakeable, yet fragile mountain. The memory is unforgettable. Facing the world, I admire the summits I've already climbed and imagine my future odysseys. I can also see the path I've taken along the Innera Rottalgrat. And I take endless photographs of the vast landscape, the rocky reliefs and glacier cracks. I photograph them to keep in mind that nature is beautiful, that the mountain is its queen. Like the apotheosis of a world that defies time.
Descent of the Jungfrau via the normal route to the Jungfraujoch
But as the hour passes, we have to get back down. We decide to take the normal route back to the Jungfraujoch. Conditions are good on the ridge leading to the Rottalsattel. At a time when snow is still a long way off, the apparent quicksilver can nevertheless conceal many dangers. You could slip with every step. From the Rottalsattel, we head for the Jungfraujoch. We then hit a steep slope of ice mixed with inconsistent snow. I couldn't go backwards. So Johann had me abseil down to the bottom of the rimaye.
Arriving on the Jungfraufirn glacier, our concentration is sorely tested. We're confronted by an immense labyrinth of crevasses buried beneath the snow. A single careless error and the trap closes. At any moment, a snow bridge could break and send us plummeting to the bottom of a crevasse. Johann struggles to find the safest route, and we make our way roped up on the back of this merciless and bewitching colossus. Through abyssal crevasses and over snow bridges, we make our way forward at all costs. And I wonder how nature manages to adorn the worst dangers with the most brilliant finery. How can unparalleled beauty arouse such awe in us?
Safe and sound, we finally reach the Jungfraujoch, and our solitude collides head-on with civilization. Hundreds of people are here, visiting this Alpine landmark, one of the most visited places in Switzerland. While I'm still deep in thought, we take the train down to the valley. The mountain passes before my eyes and I come back down to earth. My knees still aching from the previous week's traverse from the Täschhorn to the Dom des Mischabel, I'm delighted to be able to take the train up the 2,000-metre ascent to the Kleine Scheidegg station.
When we reach the railway pass, Johann and I take a break. We're incredibly lucky to be able to recharge our batteries in front of the mythical Bernese triptych! The Jungfrau now conquered, the Eiger climbed in July and the Mönch last year. Dressed in green, grey and blue, nature wears her most beautiful finery like the banner of all possibilities. Because in the mountains, you have to dare. We need to improve our technique, strengthen our mentality and believe that the most outrageous ambitions can one day become possible. So let's let the ideas germinate, the projects blossom and our dreams, I'm sure, will one day come true.
