June 2025. The royal traverse of Mont Blanc has guided us over the last few days from the Dômes de Miage to the Aiguille de Bionnassay. I told you about this stage in my first report. Now it's time to reach Mont Blanc via the Dôme du Goûter. This journey to the summit the Alps will undoubtedly hold many more surprises in store for us. So let's set off and continue our ascent along the sublime ridges of Mont Maudit, Mont Blanc du Tacul and Aiguille du Midi.
Traversée royale du Mont Blanc : From Col de Bionnassay to Dôme du Goûter
For a long time, I thought about this traverse from the Aiguille de Bionnassay to the Dôme du Goûter. For fear that the ridge might be icy or that the winds might get in the way. But on this day, the ridge is covered in snow, and we dare to take it on without fear. The ridges are sculpted with discreet but formidable cornices. So, to avoid encountering them, we advance below, at the risk of facing a steeper slope. On the steep flanks of the Mont Blanc massif, the wind is blowing, but the snow is superb.
From the Col de Bionnassay, we climb up to the Piton des Italiens. We cross the path of the roped parties coming from the Gonella refuge to climb Mont Blanc. At the Piton, I stop to photograph the Bionnassay ridge and the route leading from the Bosses to Mont Blanc, used by many mountaineers.
As we set off towards the Dôme du Goûter, an icy wind suddenly envelops us. I can't feel my hands. The gusts threaten to knock us off our feet. We can hardly stand upright. But we have to stay the course. We have no choice. The cold gets under our clothes and makes us give in, but we persevere. And redoubling our zeal, we decide to take this race even further. As the traditional route of the royal traverse of Mont Blanc passes below the Dôme du Goûter, we head for its summit. If you're going to be so close, you might as well be there. Here we are at 4304 m altitude, so close to Mont Blanc, the queen mountain that so many people aspire to climb one day.
Traversée royale du Mont Blanc : From the Dôme du Goûter to the Roof of Europe
From the Dôme du Goûter, we follow the ridge that leads to the Bosses. Here we meet up with the mountaineers who are making the ascent of Mont Blanc via its normal route. At such a high altitude, I start to get altitude sickness. But I resist as best I can. I take more aspirin and stay focused on my goal. Above us, the Vallot refuge dominates the Grand Plateau, a glacial expanse with opaline reflections. And in the distance, I gaze at the Brouillard ridge, the wild crest we plan to climb soon.
Arriving at the summit Les Bosses, at 4547 m altitude, I admire the grandeur of Mont Blanc. An immense mountain, but one that has changed so much in recent years. It seems to me battered. Its crevasses open, its walls sagging, the rock emerging from its snowy mantle. The King of the Alps struggles to catch his breath. It's exhausting itself fighting against the warming weather.
We've only got a few more metres to go before we reach this mythical summit . So I'm going for it, putting all my energy into it. Every step is a challenge in itself, a challenge to my own body. Move forward, breathe, don't lose your footing. Johann advises me to take a deep breath every four steps, but I tell him I'm already breathing deeply with every one! I'm at the end of my rope. All that's left for me to do is to keep moving forward, one step at a time, taking care to maintain a steady pace. Twice I think I've reached the summit, but these were false joys. Mont Blanc has to be earned, there's no doubt about it.
And when I finally see Johann's face light up with a smile, I know that this time we've made it. It's 9:30 a.m. and we've reached the summit Mont Blanc! At the climax of this royal crossing, we're overlooking the Alps, 7 hours after we set off. It's hard to believe that we're standing at an altitude of 4808 m! It's unthinkable, staggering. It was a tough ordeal, and I suffered as I climbed higher and higher. But it was an unforgettable adventure. And I can't thank Johann enough for supporting and accompanying me throughout this race through the Alps. At the gates of heaven, I photograph the mountains bathed in sparkling sunshine. All the mountains I've already covered, explored and immortalized. And the summits I've yet to climb. Nature offers us the most beautiful of spectacles. Then we have to leave Mont Blanc to continue our journey.
Traversée royale du massif du Mont Blanc : Ascension of Mont Maudit
We descend to the Brenva pass. The view is magnificent and I'm delighted to be losing altitude. I catch my breath, my lungs filling up with oxygen again. In the Alpine sky, my mind escapes. Hours of walking nourish the thoughts. Then we reach the foot of Mont Maudit. Neither I nor Johann have yet climbed it. Most climbers who make the royal traverse of Mont Blanc bypass its summit to reach the Col Maudit. But we've chosen to go as far as we can. To climb Mont Maudit, united by the challenge of conquering all the 4000m peaks in the Alps.
I'm back on the mountain I love. The one that demands the best of me. The one that invites me to surpass myself. Overwhelmed by fatigue and out of breath, I continue the ascent whatever the cost. I eat sugar to build up my strength, swallow another aspirin, and climb without thinking too hard. Those 160 m of ascent seem like 1000. I suffer with every step, but I keep going. And when we reach the summit Mont Maudit, at 4465 m, I collapse with joy and exhaustion. I've just climbed my 64th summit in the Alps, over 4,000 m high. And never in my life will I be able to forget that harrowing climb to Mont Maudit. Of course, the best way to climb the mountain is via the Küffner ridge, but I'll be back. I promise.
Behind us, Mont Blanc greets our feat with majesty. And the more I contemplate it, the more fascinated I am by the immensity of its realm. What are we, insignificant men and women, in the face of such immensity? Our dreams, our struggles, what are they really in the face of this dizzying world? But it's already late, and we must continue our journey.
A royal route to the summit the Alps: From Mont Blanc du Tacul to Aiguille du Midi
We descend Mont Maudit by the same route before heading for Mont Blanc du Tacul. The ridge is covered in deep snow. The massif opens up a royal road for us, and we enjoy this privileged moment over the Alps. After a short break, we climb back up to the summit Mont Blanc du Tacul, at 4248 m altitude. Looking up at the sky, I thank life for giving me this moment. I've just climbed my 65th Alpine 4000. Who would have believed it just 10 years ago! One feat follows another and I can't believe it.
We're finally on the last leg of this fabulous royal crossing. Johann warns me. The route from Mont Blanc du Tacul to the Col du Midi is fraught with pitfalls. Falling seracs, gaping crevasses, danger everywhere. We then descend the slope in one go, taking care not to upset the mountain. At the Col du Midi, we're only 3532 m above sea level and I'm feeling much better. Without the altitude sickness, I feel livelier. And I need energy, because we still have to climb 300 m to reach the Aiguille du Midi.
We brave the snow of the Vallée Blanche. It's so thick you can sink right down to your calves. Progress is slow in these conditions, but we persevere. We know that once we reach the Aiguille, the difficulties will be behind us. With each stride, we stir up the snow with considerable effort. Until we finally reach the Aiguille du Midi cable car. The expedition comes to an end, and we're delighted to have shared this incredible journey through the Mont Blanc massif.
The cabins are packed, and our return to civilization is brutal. But Johann and I can't wait to get back to the valley and our family. We've had our fill of snow, rocks, sun and wind. We've satisfied the desire that drives us in the high mountains, and now we just want to rest. Our memories of this royal crossing of Mont Blanc will be indelible.
